ich habe gerade Probleme mit einer Mafell FM 1000PV-ER (hoffentlich nur die Kohlen verdreckt...)
The coal brushes on my Mafell wear out rather fast, always have a spare set nearby.
Beiträge von DDV
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Polymake is a quite good material too, but not suitable for the AMS from Bambulab because of the cardboard spool - I've had problems with these kind of spools!
Here's my solution for any kind of spool.
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Hello, I print a lot in PLA on two Prusa printers. Only occasionally in PETG, ABS, Flex or even Polycarbonate when it needs to be very tough. Apart from that I work in a Product Design university lab where we also mainly print PLA. In most cases strongness depends more on the design than on material.
I buy my filament from different sources but I can recommend Polymaker very much, perfect matte prints for even most complex designs. Cheap and fast delivery from Conrad => https://www.conrad.de/de/marke…searchType=SearchRedirect
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I have my 6045 on wheels for over two years now. Never had any problems and doing lots of very precise milling in hardwood.
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33 Watt Diodenlaser. Ob ich die Leistung wirklich brauche...keine Ahnung...hole ihn mir aber vermutlich dennoch.
Interested to hear your experience if you decide to buy one....
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Ok, I see. Then you can download a specific 'tile' from OpenStreetMap like this: https://www.openstreetmap.org/export#map=13/51.8648/8.9237. On the right click 'share' and pick 'svg' as file format. You get a rather complex svg file with many layers that needs a lot of cleaning up. You can either select contours of what you want, or you can also use the height layers to create a real 3D relief. It's a lot of work however....
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I've done several really long jobs with Estlcam, like 30 hours or more. When I'm away I put Estlcam in pause and leave the computer on. It's possible to switch the controller off. Even after a few hours and several times during a job you can pause. Sometimes I end up spending 4 days to finish a job.
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Kennt jemand so etwas auch für Städte? Wo auch die Gebäude in der .stl sichtbar sind? Ich werde mal nach so etwas suchen, wenn ich Zeit habe...
Most cities have this on their city website somewhere. The 3D maps are often used by architecture or city planning students to make models of their design projects. Any specific you are looking for?
Here's the map for Antwerp: https://portaal-stadantwerpen.…a99d7505543d7070a/explore click on a tile to download (in Sketchup format).
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I use a lot of long tools for deep milling, getting those from freesjes.nl. They have a very wide choice and fast delivery.
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I used Polycarbonate plates instead of Plexiglas. Polycarbonates are stronger and don't shatter when a broken mill or part flies into it at high speed.
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Here are a few foam plates that are very good for CNC milling: https://www.compositeshop.de/xoshop/lng/en/block-materials/ They also produce less noise than wood.
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Yeah in my recommendation I forgot about the precision required to mkae proper 2 sided carves.
Another possibilitie I saw was using dowels which you machien into your upper board and then again in your spoil bord. When flipping you attach the top side to the spoilboard with the dowels and thereby have a perfect alignment.
True, dowels are also a good alignment method. I often use (tiny) dowels or even toothpicks to align different layers when assembling a lasercut volume.
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You could draw (or import) a sheep in Inkscape. Copy it in two layers and make one the front view and one the back view. Draw a rectangle around the final drawing. Export both layers separately as SVG and don't forget to reverse the back view drawing.
Import the SVG in Estlcam and make sure you put your zero in the centre. Engrave the back view and cut the rectangle. Leave your plate on the machine and only reverse the cutout rectangle. Fix the rectangle and make sure it's centered. Now engrave the front view and cut the contour.
If you have a centering vise you could just use a rectangle piece of wood and reverse it in exactly the same place.
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From experience I'd prefer the 1mm mill because it will give less burr. cleaner edge both on top and bottom. If that doesn't matter of course drilling is easier and faster.
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Here's a sample of relief created from an image: TexttoImage 20220217
I used Cura to raise the levels, whites up in one version and blacks up in the other version. Then save as .stl and import in Estlcam. The Black MDF blocks are 300x300x30mm. Of course it's an 'abstract' image and I'm pleased with whatever way the software is handling it.
As mentioned by Steppenfuha above it will be difficult to make what you want from this image as you can only choose black or white to pull up. You could change the colours to different levels according to the kind of 'perspective' you want, but I figure that may take hours or days....
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Huh, I'll check it again with the wheel at a different speed. If that wasn't the problem then it would still be good to know what actually was.
The only other thing I replaced was a connector (https://www.sorotec.de/shop/Co…-fuer-Schrittmotoren.html), a real pain to get the 12 wires into the tiny slots....
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The noise sounded like a wobbly motor, so apparently it can't find the exact rpm that the controller is sending because the switchwheel says something different. Or the switchwheel is just not compatible with remote control, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the speed on the Mafell should be at max. The kind of vague memory you have after the solution is found....
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Alright, the problem is solved! The rpm switchwheel on the Mafell was not at the max (6) position but at 5 something. It probably moved when I removed the cover to check connections and brushes. Didn't notice it until now when I once again checked the brushes, they're halfway so no problem there. Anyway, something to keep in mind and check when your Mafell a funny noise!
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Same here, I've had it running for over 12 hours more than once. Pause and continue the next day, or even a few days later, again for a couple of hours. I have a webcam installed so I can watch what's going on from another computer or even on my phone. My Mafell is very quiet so I only have some sideways Lexan protection in case something flies away or a milling bit breaks. The only noisy and sometimes overheating part is the vacuum cleaner....
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If you have a older mafell model it can be the mainswitch
I bought it (Mafell FM1000 PV-WS 230 V 50 Hz Werkzeugwechselspindel) from you in January 2021, so I presume it's not an older model?
